Home Inspection Checklist for Oregon Buyers

A home inspection shows you what you are actually buying. In Central Oregon, properties range from modern in-town construction to decades-old homes on rural acreage with wells and septic systems, and the inspection period determines what you know before you close.

What a Home Inspection Actually Covers

A standard home inspection in Oregon follows the Oregon Construction Contractors Board (CCB) standards. Your inspector will evaluate the visible and accessible components of the home, but they are not performing destructive testing or looking behind walls. An inspection is a snapshot of one day.

Structural Components

The inspector examines the foundation, framing, floors, walls, ceilings, and roof structure. In Central Oregon, there are several structural concerns that come up frequently:

• Foundation cracks: Some hairline cracks in concrete foundations are normal settling, especially in the volcanic soil common to the region. Horizontal cracks, stair-step cracks in block foundations, or wide cracks warrant further evaluation by a structural engineer.
• Frost heave: Central Oregon's freeze-thaw cycles can cause foundation movement, particularly in homes with shallow footings. Look for doors that don't close properly, cracked drywall at window corners, or uneven floors.
• Crawl space conditions: Many Central Oregon homes have crawl spaces rather than basements. The inspector should check for proper vapor barriers, ventilation, signs of moisture intrusion, and pest damage.

Roof and Exterior

The inspector evaluates the roof covering, flashing, gutters, chimneys, and exterior cladding. Central Oregon's climate creates some specific challenges:

• Snow load: Roofs in Bend and surrounding areas need to handle significant snow accumulation. The inspector should note the roof's structural capacity and whether it shows signs of stress from heavy snow.
• UV damage: At Central Oregon's elevation, UV exposure is intense. Asphalt shingle roofs may age faster than in lower-elevation areas.
• Siding and trim: Wood siding is common in older Central Oregon homes. Look for signs of dry rot, particularly on north-facing walls and around windows where moisture can accumulate.

Electrical System

• Panel capacity and condition
• Wiring type (older aluminum wiring requires special connectors and careful monitoring)
• GFCI protection in bathrooms, kitchens, garages, and exterior outlets
• Smoke detectors and carbon monoxide alarms (Oregon requires working CO alarms when a home is sold or rented if it contains a carbon monoxide source, such as a fuel-burning heater, fireplace, furnace, appliance or cooking source, or an attached garage that opens into the living space; it also requires them in homes built in 2011 or later, and in older homes that had reconstruction, alteration or repair requiring a building permit)

Plumbing System

• Water pressure and flow rate
• Pipe material (polybutylene pipes are prone to failure and may need replacement)
• Water heater condition, age, and capacity
• Visible leaks, corrosion, or improper connections
• Drain function in all fixtures

HVAC System

Heating is critical in Central Oregon's cold winters. The inspector will evaluate:

• Furnace age, condition, and expected remaining life
• Heat pump efficiency (increasingly common in the region)
• Ductwork condition and insulation
• Thermostat function
• Fireplace and wood stove safety (chimney condition, clearances, proper installation)

Oregon-Specific Inspection Issues

These are the items that make an Oregon inspection different from one in most other states. Pay special attention to these.

Radon Testing

The EPA recommends fixing a home if the radon level is 4 pCi/L (picocuries per liter) or more.

You can run a radon test during your inspection period. If levels are elevated, a mitigation system (a fan and pipe system that vents radon from under the foundation) can be installed, and you can ask the seller to install one as part of your repair request on the Buyer's Repair Addendum (OREF 022A).

Well Water Testing

If the home has a well that supplies water for domestic use, Oregon law (ORS 448.271) requires the seller, upon accepting an offer, to have the well tested for arsenic, nitrates and total coliform bacteria, and to send the results to the Oregon Health Authority and to the buyer within 90 days of receiving them. The standard Oregon sale agreement has the buyer attach the Private Well Addendum (OREF 082), which has the seller order those tests at the seller's cost. In the same addendum, the buyer can choose more tests, such as:

• Well flow
• Extra arsenic, nitrate and bacteria tests
• Lead
• Other water quality tests

For each added test, the buyer and seller check whether the buyer or the seller pays. If the reports show substantial problems, the buyer sends the seller a list, the two sides get a short window to negotiate, and if they cannot agree the buyer can back out with a refund of deposits.

For comparison, the EPA's maximum contaminant level for arsenic in public water systems is 0.010 milligrams per liter (10 parts per billion). Private wells are not regulated under the federal Safe Drinking Water Act, so the seller's required test and any tests you add are how you learn what is in the water.

Septic System Inspection

For properties with septic systems, a separate septic inspection is essential. The standard Oregon sale agreement has the buyer attach the Septic/Onsite Sewage System Addendum (OREF 081), where the buyer and seller choose which services happen and who pays for each. It typically involves:

• Locating and uncovering the tank and distribution box
• Pumping the tank and inspecting its interior condition
• Checking the drain field for signs of failure (surfacing effluent, saturated soil, lush green strips)
• Verifying the system size is adequate for the home (number of bedrooms determines required capacity)

Replacing a failing septic system can be costly, depending on site conditions and the type of system required.

Wildfire Risk Assessment

Many Central Oregon properties are in the wildland-urban interface (WUI), where developed areas meet forests and brush. While not a standard part of a home inspection, you should evaluate:

• Defensible space: Is there cleared space and managed vegetation around the structure?
• Roof material: Wood shake roofs in fire zones are a significant risk. Many insurance companies won't write policies for homes with wood shake roofs in high-risk areas.
• Access and egress: Are there at least two routes out of the property and neighborhood? Single-access communities in forested areas present evacuation concerns.
• Insurance availability: Before you commit to purchasing, verify that you can obtain homeowner's insurance at a reasonable cost. Some properties in high wildfire risk areas have very limited insurance options.

Check the current market conditions to understand how wildfire risk is affecting property values in different areas.

Environmental Concerns

• Asbestos: Older homes may contain asbestos in insulation, floor tiles, siding, or pipe wrap. Undisturbed asbestos is generally safe, but renovation or removal requires specialized contractors.
• Lead paint: Homes built before 1978 may have lead paint. For most of that housing, federal law requires the seller to disclose any known lead-based paint and lead-based paint hazards, provide available records and reports and an EPA-approved lead hazard pamphlet, and give the buyer a 10-day opportunity to conduct a risk assessment or inspection.
• Underground heating oil tanks: Oregon DEQ says underground heating oil tanks are a potential source of soil and groundwater contamination, and Oregon law (ORS 466.878) requires the owner to pump all the heating oil out of an abandoned underground heating oil tank when the home is sold.

How to Read an Inspection Report

Modern inspection reports are often long, with photos and color-coded severity ratings. Here's how to think about the findings:

Safety Hazards

These should always be addressed. Examples: missing GFCI outlets near water, exposed wiring, gas leaks, structural failure, non-functioning smoke or CO detectors, and trip hazards. Request that the seller correct these before closing.

Major Defects

Components that are significantly deficient or at the end of their useful life. Examples: a roof near the end of its life, a furnace showing signs of a cracked heat exchanger, foundation issues requiring engineering, or a failing septic system. These are legitimate negotiation items.

Maintenance Items

Things that should be taken care of but aren't deal-breakers. Examples: caulking around windows, minor grading issues, missing downspout extensions, a dripping faucet. These are good to know about but generally not worth negotiating over.

Cosmetic Issues

Scuffed paint, minor drywall dings, worn carpet. The inspector may note these but they shouldn't affect your decision.

What to Negotiate After the Inspection

If you included the inspection contingency, you have three options under the standard Oregon sale agreement (OREF 001) after receiving the inspection report:

• Accept the property as-is (no request for repairs)
• Request repairs or credits (repairs are requested on the Buyer's Repair Addendum, OREF 022A, and the seller can agree, decline, or decline and offer their own repairs on the Seller's Repair Addendum, OREF 022B; a credit has to be put in writing and signed by both sides)
• Terminate the agreement (by delivering written notice of unconditional disapproval, OREF 064, before 5:00 p.m. on the last day of the inspection period, which refunds your deposits)

When negotiating repairs, focus on:

• Safety issues (always reasonable to request)
• Major system defects (roof, foundation, HVAC, plumbing)
• Issues that affect insurability or lendability
• Problems the seller may not have been aware of

Avoid requesting:

• Cosmetic fixes (paint, carpet, landscaping)
• Normal wear and age-related items on older homes
• Long lists of minor items (this can frustrate sellers and derail negotiations)

Prioritize the three to five most significant items and present them clearly with inspector documentation.

When to Walk Away

If you included the inspection contingency, you can walk away by delivering written notice of unconditional disapproval (OREF 064) before 5:00 p.m. on the last day of the inspection period, and sometimes it's the right call. Consider terminating if you discover:

• Structural problems that would be very expensive to repair and the seller won't negotiate
• Environmental contamination (mold, asbestos, underground tank leaks) that creates ongoing health or liability concerns
• A failing septic system on a property where replacement is difficult or impossible due to site constraints
• Well water quality or quantity issues that can't be reasonably resolved
• Unpermitted additions or modifications that the seller won't agree to address
• An accumulation of problems that suggests deferred maintenance throughout the home

When you back out that way, your deposits are refunded.

Choosing a Home Inspector

In Oregon, home inspectors must be certified by the Oregon Construction Contractors Board. Beyond that minimum, look for:

• ASHI (American Society of Home Inspectors) certification
• Experience with the specific type of property you're buying (rural properties, older homes, new construction)
• Local Central Oregon experience (they'll know regional issues like volcanic soil, snow load requirements, and common building practices)
• Sample reports (ask to see one before hiring)
• Willingness to explain findings clearly, not just list defects

Plan to attend the inspection in person if at all possible. Walking through the home with the inspector and asking questions gives you far more information than just reading the report.

A good inspection protects you from expensive surprises and gives you the information to make an informed decision. Don't skip it, don't rush it, and don't be afraid of what it might find.

Questions

Sources

• ORS 701.445, home inspector certification and standards of practice: Oregon Revised Statutes, chapter 701oregonlegislature.gov
• OAR 812-008-0030secure.sos.state.or.us and OAR 812-008-0202secure.sos.state.or.us, Construction Contractors Board home inspector rules
• ORS 105.836 to 105.842, carbon monoxide alarms: Oregon Revised Statutes, chapter 105oregonlegislature.gov
• Oregon State Fire Marshal, Oregon Carbon Monoxide Alarm Laws for Selling or Renting a Homeoregon.gov
• Oregon DEQ, Frequently Asked Questions about Decommissioning, Cleanup Costs and Lawsoregon.gov (heating oil tanks; ORS 466.878)
• U.S. EPA, What is EPA's Action Level for Radon and What Does it Mean?epa.gov
• ORS 448.271, testing of domestic well at sale: Oregon Revised Statutes, chapter 448oregonlegislature.gov
• 40 CFR 141.62ecfr.gov, maximum contaminant levels for inorganic contaminants
• U.S. EPA, Private Drinking Water Wellsepa.gov
• 40 CFR part 745, subpart Fecfr.gov (sections 745.100, 745.103 and 745.107), lead-based paint disclosure on sale or lease of target housing
• OREF 001 Residential Real Estate Sale Agreement (Released 01/2026), Sections 5, 12.2, 13, 14, 48 and 49(f)
• OREF 022A Buyer's Repair Addendum (Released 01/2026) and OREF 022B Seller's Repair Addendum (Released 01/2025)
• OREF 081 Septic/Onsite Sewage System Addendum (Released 01/2026) and OREF 082 Private Well Addendum (Released 01/2026)